A Walk to Varanasi Cremation Pyres 🇮🇳 Views, And How Tourists Get Scammed

 Here is the Ganges - this is at the northern edge of the city:  And this is the central part:  From morning till evening there is busy boat traffic there. On the opposite bank there is also trade and services:  Camel rides.  The ladies' chat.  People are chilling out along the river.  And dancing by the river.  And watching a traditional performance dedicated to the river goddess (Ganga Aarti). But today is not about that - let us head instead into this cloud of smoke:  This is mostly smoke from cremation pyres (mixed with boat fumes). When the weather doesn't help, these clouds just hang over the river. ### Manikarnika cremation ghat In Varanasi there are two cremation ghats - **Manikarnika** and **Harishchandra Ghat**. The first one is bigger, but the scammers there are too pushy - it is just too disturbing. They spot foreigners to try to 1) sell them guide services and "permission" to take photos 2) or to catch them breaking the no-photo rule and squeeze money out of them. The most upgraded scenario: they explain you that you must make a donation for firewood, as it is very expensive... Did I experienced this myself? Yes, back in 2014. A young guy caught me taking photos at night. He demanded me to pay for the expensive firewood, and when I offered 60 rupees (1$), he sharply refused, saying that a kilogram of wood costs a lot. He brought me to a nearby hospice - a dark building without any light, without glasses in windows - to see an allegedly dying old woman, whom I was supposed to give money for the wood... Was I too poor or greedy, or did I just realize that they were putting on a show to intimidate me and pity me, not sure, but I said, "*if you don't want 60 rupees, you get nothing.*" He tried to stop me by force and started yelling that his friends would smash my camera. I pushed him and went on my way... Having left with dignity like a person who was afraid of nothing, I started running as soon as I turned into a backstreet - quite soon I lost an idea where I was in that damn maze of dark lanes... But eventually I survived, lol. They have no right to collect any fines or demand money, but **this scam is old and is part of Manikarnika Ghat life, so it is best to stay polite and not get into trouble**. ### Harishchandra cremation ghat At Harishchandra Ghat everything is fine - no scammers - although taking photos isn't allowed there either.  And there are people keeping order, and I was told off once for photographing. So... sharing forbidden pictures. ![DSC_3826.JPG](https://files.peakd.com/file/peakd-hive/x-rain/242NmU7MgzUsxwNR3agPS2MNAzceFzERk4mZr […]